Masai Mara National Reserve
Elephant in Masai Mara National Reserve
The Masai Mara National Reserve covers 167 sq km, at between 1500 and 2100m above sea level. It’s an extension of Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park and is administered by the local country councils. It is probably the most famous and most visited reserve in Kenya. The landscape is gently rolling grassland, with rainfall in the north being double that of the south.
The Mara river runs from North to South through the park and then turns westwards to Lake Victoria. It offers breathtaking views, an extraordinary density of animals including the “Big Five”, and many varieties of plains game.
A Brief History Masai Mara National Reserve
In 1948, the Mara Triangle, a 520km2 area between the Siria Escarpment, the Tanzania border and the Mara River was declared a National Game Reserve and shooting was regulated. In 1961 the Reserve was brought under the direct control of the Narok Country Council and its borders extended east of the river to encompass a 1813 km2 area. In 1984 three sections were excised and the Masai Mara National Reserve was reduced to its present size of about 1510km2. In 1995 the control of the Reserve was divided between Narok and Trans Mara Country Councils.
The Maasai of the Mara plains still cling to their traditional way of life to a great extent, but throughout Maasai land, changes are happening; more children attend school, more women are earning money from the sale of their colourful beadwork and more young men are seeking employment in towns and tourist lodges. On the perimeter of the Masai Mara reserve, cooperative group ranching schemes are introducing the concept of land ownership. Large tracts of productive grasslands to the north and east are being parceled off and sold or leased to wheat growers. The loss of traditional gazing lands is placing increasing pressure on the Reserve as the Massai seek alternative pastures. In the old days, cattle and wildebeest did not compete for grazing directly because the Maasai, fearing certain disease that the wildebeest carried, removed their livestock when the wildebeest arrived in the dry season.
Now the Maasai, hemmed in by agriculture, have nowhere else to go and the wildebeest have increased in number. Land adjudication is happening at a rapid rate and individual title deeds are soon to be held by most group ranch members. Innovative ways must be sought for the Maasai to participate in the conservation and management of wildlife on their land and tap income from tourism.
Sunset in Masai Mara National Reserve
The Changing Landscape
Earlier this century, following rinderpest outbreaks, the absence of large herds of grazing animals encouraged the growth of woody vegetation. Much of the decline of the woodlands occurred in the 1960s and is continuing to this day. Elephant, fire and grazing by wild and domestic herbivores have wrought a transformation from heavily wooded savanna and bushland to open grassland. Now, hunted by ivory poachers and harassed by agriculturalists, elephant tend to stay within the relative safety of some of the Parks and Reserves.
Since 1984, elephant numbers in Mara have risen rapidly to over 1000, with many herds moving north due to the increase in poaching elsewhere. It is thought that elephant are largely responsible for holding the Mara in a grassland phase. The Maras extensive grasslands, opened up by fire and elephant, attract huge herds of grazing animals in the dry season, the most numerous being the migrant wildebeest and zebra. Interestingly, scientists working in the Serengeti have shown that moderate to heavy grazing of the short grass plains actually stimulates grass growth and also results in a greater variety of low growing, palatable species. This positive feedback between the grazers and their food supply is one of the factors, which makes the Serengeti Mara one of the most productive ecosystems on earth.
Grasslands are the dominant vegetation community in the Mara, covering the gently rolling Central Plans and the poorly drained back cotton soils of the Triangle. Most of the grasslands are derived maintained by fire and grazing. The most common grass in the Mara is the red oat grass, Themeda triandra. In its early stages of growth this is a very palatable and nutritious species and forms the staple diet of many grazing herbivores.
Topi and Kongoni (Cokes hartebeest) are two closely related antelope found in the grasslands. Eland, Grants gazelle and elephant are often seen out in the plains. They are browsers (eating broad-leaved plants) as well as grazers and utilize bushland areas for a great part of the year. Large herds of Cape buffalo may also be seen. Large areas of grassland seem empty, while others support mixed herds of wildebeest, zebra, Kongoni, topi and gazelles. By feeding together, each species can rely on the vigilance of others to alert the group to danger.
Cheetah hunt in the daylight in the grasslands and open woodlands, catching their prey after a high-speed chase proceeded by a slow stalk.
The Bushlands
This community is dominated by the woody shrub Croton dichotomous, easily recognized by its leaves which have a silver underside when young and which turn orange or red when they age. In some areas, old termite mounds add an extra dimension to the community supporting Candelabra trees. The termite mounds provide homes for hyena, warthog, mongoose and various rodents and reptiles. From a conservation perspective, perhaps the mot important inhabitant of the bushland is the black rhinoceros.
Black rhinos are browsers, their prehensile upper lip twisting off succulent plants such as euphorbia and wild sisal, sanseveria, and thorny acacia twigs. Herds of impala are usually seen near the bushlands which provide them with protection and food. Kirks dikdik is the name for the tiny antelope which lives exclusively in the thickets.
The Woodlands
Grassland dotted with trees are called woodlands or savannah woodlands. In the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem acacia woodland covers large areas. Seven acacia species are found in the Mara. Because the woodlands are so open, they support the same kinds of animals seen in the grasslands, wildebeest, zebra, Kongoni, topi and gazelles. Perhaps the species most dependent on the woodlands is the Masai giraffe.
Riverine Forest
Although in extent the smallest vegetation type in the Masai Mara National Reserve, the gallery forest bordering parts of the Mara River and its major tributaries is home to a wide variety of birds and mammals. Buffalo and elephant are found here, as well and the shy forest dwelling bushbuck and red Duiker. Vervet monkey and olive baboon are often encountered here. Other primates living in the forest are the blue monkey and copper tailed monkey (sometimes called red tailed monkey) and the nocturnal bush baby or greater galago. Leopards are extremely shy and very elusive cats. They inhabit woodlands, croton thickets, rocky outcrops and riverine forest.
The Mara River
Born in the lush mountain forests of the Mau Escarpment, the Mara River flows year round to Lake Victoria, becoming a fierce torrent in the rainy season. Hippos are to be found at the South Mara Bridge and near Mara Serena. At night and sometimes on wet cloudy days, hippos emerge from the water to feed in the grasslands. Large crocodile bask on the banks or on rocks in midstream. The annual wildebeest migration brings these reptiles a glut of food as thousands of animals perish or are seized as they cross the swollen rivers. Monitor lizards, some up to 1.5 metres long, also favour riverbanks.
Zebra in Masai Mara
Wildlife
Wildebeest Migration
The Masai Mara and adjoining Loita plains form the northernmost part of the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem, a 25,000 km sq area encompassing the annual movements of its migratory wildebeest. The wildebeest population is now about 1.3 million. Together with the associated herds of 200,000 zebra and half a million Thomsons gazelle they form a vast assemblage of ungulates whose annual movement through the ecosystem is know as the migration.
The sight of hundreds of thousands of these animals moving together through the seas of grass must rank as one of the greatest wildlife spectacles on earth. The wildebeest herds congregate during the wettest part of the year in the short grass plains to the south eastern part of the Serengeti ecosystem, where they give birth with 80% of the females calving within a few weeks. Early in the dry season, they stream en masse through the longer grass plains and onto the western corridor. As their food supply diminishes, the herds move into the northern Serengeti woodlands and the Masai Mara. Zebra follow similar, but not quite identical, movements. Thomsons gazelle also migrate, but only as far as the edge of the woodlands. The routes taken by the herds varies from year to year but the general pattern of the migration remains the same The first wildebeest usually arrive in the Mara in June or July and most remain there until late October or early November. Slowly at first, but with increasing momentum, the wildebeest leave the Mara by various routes as they follow the rains south.
Apart from the seasonal migration, game viewing is excellent year round. Game includes: elephant, black rhino, buffalo, plains zebra, hartebeest and the big cats; the rivers are home to hippo and crocodiles.
If you are very lucky, you may see a pack of wild dogs (hunting dog) out on the plains. While they rarely occur inside the Reserve two packs are known to reside to the north in the Aitong area and another larger pack in the Loita Hills to the northeast.
Birdlife in the Masai Mara National Reserve
Over 500 resident and migratory species of birds are listed for the Masai Mara, a fascinating and diverse array ranging from the enormous ostrich to tiny sunbirds, from gaudy turacos to drab larks and cisticoias identifiable only by the experts. The largest and most spectacular bird of the open plans is the ostrich. The subspecies found here is the common ostrich, which has a flesh coloured neck and legs that become coral pink in the breeding males. The breeding season starts in July after the long rains.
At this time the cocks become territorial and mate with the hens after a theatrical courtship display. Some females, called major hens form lasting bonds with a particular cock, but up to 10 other minor hens will mate with the same cock and lay their eggs in a shallow depression he has scraped in the grass. The major hen rejects all but about 20 eggs from the nest and she and the cock take turns incubating and defending them for six weeks. The eggs hatch during the October-November rains. Chicks form several broods often joining together to from a large nursery flock escorted by a few adults. Although adult ostriches are well able to defend themselves (they have been known to kill lion) their eggs and young are vulnerable to many predators and few survive.
Other large birds of the grasslands are the secretary bird, kori, black-bellied and the turkey-like ground hornbill. These birds are not flightless like the ostrich, but they do spend most of their time on the ground. The secretary bird and ground hornbill eats insects, small mammals and reptiles, while the bustards are omnivorous, eating grass seeds as well as small animals. Sometimes during the rains huge wheeling flocks of Abdims stork and the white stork pass over the Mara on their migration. After a storm, they alight in the grasslands in the thousands to eat the termites and frogs that emerge. Screeching loudly as you drive by, the crowned plover seems to delight in making as much noise as possible.
The rivers and streams and in seasonal marshes such as the Musiara Swamp, you can see Egyptian geese, often in pairs, and the tall, solitary saddle-bill stork. Sacred ibis and blacksmith plover search for insects and grubs along the edges of Waterbuck. Birds of prey and raptors abound in all habitats and 53 species are represented here. Black-shouldered kite perch on acacia trees near roads and hover over the long grass in ditches looking for mice. Bateleur eagle soar endlessly overhead, easily recognized by their broad, pointed wings and short tails. The augur buzzard is another common and easily recognized raptor. Adults have a white belly, black head and upper parts, white under wings and a red tall fanned out in flight.
At kills, squadrons of vultures wait to clean up the carcass after the predators have eaten their fill. Six species of vulture occur in the Mara. They can be divided into pairs on the basis of their role in disposing of the carcass. Large lappet-faced and white-headed vultures have deep, broad backs adapted for tearing skin and other tough parts. They can rip open the dead animal making the viscera more accessible to white-backed and Ruppells griffon vulture which have long, bare necks and can reach deep inside the body. The hooded vulture and Egyptian vulture are smaller, with thinner beaks. They stand on the edge of the fray and pick up scraps and small bones. The tawny eagle and black kite can also be seen scavenging scraps and small bones.
Other attractions in Masai Mara National Reserve
Wildlife viewing from hot air balloons and daily flights to Rusinga island, Lake Victoria for big game fishing. Ballooning or lake Victoria flights can be booked from any of the lodges or tented camps.
Night game drives and game walks are offered at many lodges and camps outside the Reserve.
The northern area, owned by the Maasai, offers great gameviewing, game walks and night game driving.
The Talek gate
Has a larger number of campsite along the north bank of the Talek river,east of the gate. Some are the most or less permanent territories of camping safaries operators fetch up when agroup is in and you may be able to avail your self of facilities, water and drinks, for a small charge. Nearby the small centre of Talek there are few dukas and hotels.
Sand rivers
Sand river’s campsite is perhaps the best, with toiklets and fresh water from the stream, and its nicely located in the spot where animals came to drink at night.The attraction is its isolation:perhaps too isolated, as there have beenrecent reports of robberies, and the site acquired an unsavoury reputation after the murder here of Julie Ward. The site us within the reserve , so you’ll have to pay park fees
Access
The Reserve lies southwest of Narok town and is about five hours drive from Nairobi. To reach the West Side of the Reserve, drive straight on after the Ewaso Ngiro junction, 15 km from Narok, towards Nkorkorri. At the Nkorkorri junction, turn left and go through the Lemek Valley, following signs to Kichwa Tembo and Mara River Camps. Keekorok and the East Side of the Reserve are reached by taking a left turn at the Ewaso Ngiro junction and taking the C12 road. After 75 km you reach Sekenani Gate. Alternatively, you may enter the Reserve through the Ololaimutiek Gate by turning left 40km along the C12 road and taking the Morijo road, following the signs to Keekorok.
There are daily scheduled flights on several airlines from Wilson Airport to many destinations in the Mara which take 45 mins. Charter flights are also available
Accommodation in Masai Mara National Reserve
Within the Reserve there are two lodges, Mara Serena and Keekorok and four tented camps Governors, Little Governor, Mara Sarova and Ol Kiombo Mara Intrepid. Outside the Reserve boundary are six lodges Mara Safari Club, Olkurrun, Mara Sopa, Mpata Club, Mara Simba, Paradise Lodge and seven tented camps: Kichwa Tembo, Mara Buffalo, Mara River Siana Springs, Sekenani, Oseur and Fig Tree.
A variety of campsites are situated at the perimeter of the Reserve.
Reserve HQ
Reserve headquarters and the Senior Wardens office and residence are situated at the Sekenani complex next to Sekenani Gate. There is also an Assistant warden stationed at Mara Serena who is responsible for the Mara Triangle area.
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